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The $18 Sake Sampler at En Japanese Brasserie, a sake bar at 435 Hudson St in Manhattan for Seth Kugel's Weekend In New York column. July 12, 2008. Robert Caplin For The New York Times

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The $18 Sake Sampler at En Japanese Brasserie, a sake bar at 435 Hudson St in Manhattan for Seth Kugel's Weekend In New York column. July 12, 2008. Robert Caplin For The New York Times